Fuji DS-565 / Nikon E3s on eBay ends 2005/06/26
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Hi,
Well, I have an E3s/565 on the way to keep my E2/505 company. After I saw I'd won the auction last night, I couldn't resist and popped the on/off switch assembly out of my E2.
It came out surprisingly easy. I tried lifting the on/off tab with my fingernail, and it appeared that the locking pin was holding it in. So, I held the lock pin down at the same time I lifted up on the tab, and it came right out. This could explain why the E3 is missing it's switch, actually......
The thing is an assembly, with a pair of spring-copper contacts that wipe along a set of traces on a small printed-wire board inside the body. There's a couple screws holding the contacts to the on/off switch ring, and a circlip on the shutter button to hold it's spring in place.
The shutter button is just a small shaft that extends downwards through the contact PWB to another switch mounted below it.
Jarle was kind enough to send me a part list, with exploded view diagrams, of the F4, and the E2 switch assembly looks just like the one on the F4. So, I should be able to find what I need easily enough.
Of course, the writing silk-screenprinted onto the on/off ring for the F4 isn't the same as on the E-series, but it should work. I'll have to think about cleaning off the F4 printing and making up a jig to print the proper E-series stuff in its' place. It's lucky that my wife owns a screenprinting shop, eh?
When I tell her what I want to do, she'll look at me like I grew a couple extra heads, though.
Anyway, I can test the E3 when it gets here by using my E2 switch. If this is all that's wrong with the E3, then I'll go looking for some F4 parts. If there's more wrong with it, then I'll probably not mess with it further, and it can become a source of parts for us.
I think Jarle is sort of hoping that it's toast, so I'll tear it all apart and take photos of it's innards.
Later!
Stan
Well, I have an E3s/565 on the way to keep my E2/505 company. After I saw I'd won the auction last night, I couldn't resist and popped the on/off switch assembly out of my E2.
It came out surprisingly easy. I tried lifting the on/off tab with my fingernail, and it appeared that the locking pin was holding it in. So, I held the lock pin down at the same time I lifted up on the tab, and it came right out. This could explain why the E3 is missing it's switch, actually......
The thing is an assembly, with a pair of spring-copper contacts that wipe along a set of traces on a small printed-wire board inside the body. There's a couple screws holding the contacts to the on/off switch ring, and a circlip on the shutter button to hold it's spring in place.
The shutter button is just a small shaft that extends downwards through the contact PWB to another switch mounted below it.
Jarle was kind enough to send me a part list, with exploded view diagrams, of the F4, and the E2 switch assembly looks just like the one on the F4. So, I should be able to find what I need easily enough.
Of course, the writing silk-screenprinted onto the on/off ring for the F4 isn't the same as on the E-series, but it should work. I'll have to think about cleaning off the F4 printing and making up a jig to print the proper E-series stuff in its' place. It's lucky that my wife owns a screenprinting shop, eh?
When I tell her what I want to do, she'll look at me like I grew a couple extra heads, though.
Anyway, I can test the E3 when it gets here by using my E2 switch. If this is all that's wrong with the E3, then I'll go looking for some F4 parts. If there's more wrong with it, then I'll probably not mess with it further, and it can become a source of parts for us.
I think Jarle is sort of hoping that it's toast, so I'll tear it all apart and take photos of it's innards.
Later!
Stan
Amateur Photographer
Professional Electronics Development Engineer
Professional Electronics Development Engineer
GERMAN E2N
HI Guys,
The E2n in germeny just got past my highest bid so I am off!
I own 20-35af and sb26 also so I realy don't need those two items.
has anybody used a 20-35af on their E series?
Does it vigenette?
Kiu
The E2n in germeny just got past my highest bid so I am off!
I own 20-35af and sb26 also so I realy don't need those two items.
has anybody used a 20-35af on their E series?
Does it vigenette?
Kiu
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f/2.8 vignetting
No, I don't. I hope you can fix it and enjoy it for years! But if you can't..Stan Disbrow wrote: I think Jarle is sort of hoping that it's toast, so I'll tear it all apart and take photos of it's innards.
Kiu, too bad you missed the German camera.
I've never used the 20-35, but according to one source focal lenghts below 50mm will vignette unless it's a fast f/1.8 or f/2.0 lens. This one isn't. You should expect some vignetting.
Jarle
Re: f/2.8 vignetting
I rather wait for a consecutive serial number to one of mineKiu, too bad you missed the German camera.
I noticed that this was the second camera that was offered with a 20-30afD,from what I remember the 20-35 and the 28af 1.4 were the original Nikons that had the aspherical element,may be the 20-35 would work.
I have one at home,will check on it tonight when I get home.
Would you be able to see it in the viewfinder or would it show up on the pictures?
Kiu
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Re: f/2.8 vignetting
That probably depends on the particular lens and available light, but I think you should be able to see it in the viewfinder (at least against a bright background).NIKON KIU wrote: Would you be able to see it in the viewfinder or would it show up on the pictures?
Jarle
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20-35 AF D - No vignetting
I do have the 20-35mm AF-D lens, tried it on an E2 and E3- no vignetting, full frame image.
I don't think you'd have any vignetting on an E2/E3 series if the same lens didn't on the F4.
-Nathan
I don't think you'd have any vignetting on an E2/E3 series if the same lens didn't on the F4.
-Nathan
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Re: 20-35 AF D - No vignetting
Hi Nathan,drummond93 wrote:I don't think you'd have any vignetting on an E2/E3 series if the same lens didn't on the F4.
Glad to hear that the 20-35mm doesn't vignette. However, many lenses will vignette with the E-bodies, even if they work fine on a 'regular' camera. It's an issue with the optical reducer. Take a look at the extreme example in my E2N article: http://www.nikonweb.com/e2n/ (yes, it is a full frame lens).
Jarle
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Minolta RD3000?
Hi Brian,Brian Sweeney wrote:But I have this urge to get a Minolta RD3000! HELP!
That's a strange urge..
Any special reason why you would want this one?
Jarle
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Another one: Fujix DS565, Same Seller, but has release butto
Same Seller must have bought several from the Givernment. This one has the release!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... eName=WDVW
Go For It! A "reseller" is currently bidding on it.
The RD3000: Uses two 1.6MPixel CCD's (as opposed to the 3 used in the RD175), much more integrated, magnesium allow body, APS sensor size and uses APS lenses. Again, interesting optics but built to be a Digital camera and not an add-on back.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... eName=WDVW
Go For It! A "reseller" is currently bidding on it.
The RD3000: Uses two 1.6MPixel CCD's (as opposed to the 3 used in the RD175), much more integrated, magnesium allow body, APS sensor size and uses APS lenses. Again, interesting optics but built to be a Digital camera and not an add-on back.
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Re: Another one: Fujix DS565, Same Seller, but has release b
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... eName=WDVW
If the seller is willing to ship to Europe I may bid on this one (I'll wait as long as possible before making my move.)
Thanks Brian.
Jarle
If the seller is willing to ship to Europe I may bid on this one (I'll wait as long as possible before making my move.)
Thanks Brian.
Jarle
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Hi,
Well, the Fujix DS-565 arrived this morning. Serial 9200003 (also posted to the serial number thread).
It's is decent shape overall. There is a crack in the compound curve near the shutter button, and, of course, the missing selector switch/shutter button. Looks like it took a little bounce off the floor and the button assembly took a powder....
There is also a long rub mark on the front edge of the bottom, probably from being put on and off a tripod with a quick-plate attached (the rubber pad looks good, though).
I see nothing at all wrong with the selector mode PWB nor the actual shutter actuation switch under that. I bet dollars to donuts that the thing is functional as soon as I grab my E2 and stuff from the screenprinting shop studio and pop the selector switch assembly out of the E2 and put it onto the DS-565.
As advertised, it did come with a battery. It's the Fujix BP-D56, which is the correct NiMH pack that went with the late versions. My E2 charger is useless for these packs, and I no longer have a charger from a D1. So, I'll have to evaluate the pack the old-fashioned way, with my battery analyzer in my electronics shop. Actually, the analyzer is an uber-sophisticated charger/discharger, and it's much better at doing this job than any OEM charger, anyway!
Also, I have the battery eliminator for the E-series with the charger/power supply for the E2, so I can check both the camera and the pack at the same time.
I'll get to all this in the evening, so further bulletins as events warrant!
Stan
Well, the Fujix DS-565 arrived this morning. Serial 9200003 (also posted to the serial number thread).
It's is decent shape overall. There is a crack in the compound curve near the shutter button, and, of course, the missing selector switch/shutter button. Looks like it took a little bounce off the floor and the button assembly took a powder....
There is also a long rub mark on the front edge of the bottom, probably from being put on and off a tripod with a quick-plate attached (the rubber pad looks good, though).
I see nothing at all wrong with the selector mode PWB nor the actual shutter actuation switch under that. I bet dollars to donuts that the thing is functional as soon as I grab my E2 and stuff from the screenprinting shop studio and pop the selector switch assembly out of the E2 and put it onto the DS-565.
As advertised, it did come with a battery. It's the Fujix BP-D56, which is the correct NiMH pack that went with the late versions. My E2 charger is useless for these packs, and I no longer have a charger from a D1. So, I'll have to evaluate the pack the old-fashioned way, with my battery analyzer in my electronics shop. Actually, the analyzer is an uber-sophisticated charger/discharger, and it's much better at doing this job than any OEM charger, anyway!
Also, I have the battery eliminator for the E-series with the charger/power supply for the E2, so I can check both the camera and the pack at the same time.
I'll get to all this in the evening, so further bulletins as events warrant!
Stan
Amateur Photographer
Professional Electronics Development Engineer
Professional Electronics Development Engineer
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Fujix DS-565
Hi Stan,Stan Disbrow wrote: I'll get to all this in the evening, so further bulletins as events warrant!
Thanks for the update. Let us all know if you're able to use the parts from your E2.
Jarle
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Hi,
Well, there will be a little more waiting, I'm afraid. I never did get to swing by the screenprinting shop and pick up the E2 and related stuff on Friday. Actually, it's Monday afternoon, and I still haven't made it by there. I don't know if I'll get there at all this week - just too many other things to do that have priority.....
I did get the battery pack it came with analyzed. Three faulty cells out of the six, by the look of things. The voltage won't rise past 5.5 volts, where it should top out at 9+ volts if all the cells are good and fully charged. I can't say as I'm surprised at this.
I do have one functional E2 NiCd pack, so the bad E3 pack is not a real issue.
Later!
Stan
Well, there will be a little more waiting, I'm afraid. I never did get to swing by the screenprinting shop and pick up the E2 and related stuff on Friday. Actually, it's Monday afternoon, and I still haven't made it by there. I don't know if I'll get there at all this week - just too many other things to do that have priority.....
I did get the battery pack it came with analyzed. Three faulty cells out of the six, by the look of things. The voltage won't rise past 5.5 volts, where it should top out at 9+ volts if all the cells are good and fully charged. I can't say as I'm surprised at this.
I do have one functional E2 NiCd pack, so the bad E3 pack is not a real issue.
Later!
Stan
Amateur Photographer
Professional Electronics Development Engineer
Professional Electronics Development Engineer